My RF1000 modifications (English)

[PeterKa]

I am great in number twisting... apologizes...

Ich checked out, its indeed 3M468 MP. Printing with it is great. I have absolutely no problems even with thin layers. Only thing i had to adjust was the z-axis by about half the height of the first layer (e.g. M3006 Z-0.5). And it is cheap.. Used it in 2 different printers so far, always the same good results.

PeterKa

[Nibbels]

I ordered some of the sheets.
Arriving 10 Jan 2017 - 19 Jan 2017

[Primoz]

@PeterKa
PEI (Ultem) sheet is supposed to be the best thing for printing ABS. It is rather expensive (for me, with shipping more than 40€). But you must be careful, because you can ruin it, if you print for example PETG, which sticks too much.
I don't really understand how you print on 3M468 MP sheet. It is supposed to be both sided adhesive and one side you stick on the bed, but what do you put on the other side? Or do you print directly on the adhesive?.

[Nibbels]

According to the mentioned datasheet (http://www.rf1000.de/viewtopic.php?f=26 ... =10#p15800) there are different types of layers.
The 468 has one adhesive and one liner.

Screenshot_1.jpg

LG

[Primoz]

I am not sure what they mean with the word liner. As I understand it is a protective sheet, that you are supposed to peel off, when you want to glue something with it. Having liner only on one side only makes sense, when you have a tape on a roll . But if you have a sheet, you can not have an exposed adhesive, as it would stick to everything else before you would be able to put it on the bed.
I found this video ( look at 11:38):

You can see that it has "liner" on both sides.
I am looking back a t PetrKa's photos and it looks like he is printing either on that protective liner (brown paper?) or directly on adhesive that developed a nice tan.

[Nibbels]

Ok, good advice.
Lets wait for PeterKA to explain that

When I get my Order, I can say something about that, but this might take some while.

Greetings

[PeterKa]

@PeterKa
PEI (Ultem) sheet is supposed to be the best thing for printing ABS. It is rather expensive (for me, with shipping more than 40€). But you must be careful, because you can ruin it, if you print for example PETG, which sticks too much.
I don't really understand how you print on 3M468 MP sheet. It is supposed to be both sided adhesive and one side you stick on the bed, but what do you put on the other side? Or do you print directly on the adhesive?.

Hi, Well its so totaylly easy and cheap that nearly nobody can beleive that it works.

The sheet is glued on the the ceramic bed (self adhesive). The max temperature is limited to 120 degrees. But thats enough for abs (i used 135 degrees on the ceramic bed). Of course z needs to be adjustet and HBS performed.

The sheet has to be "formed" with a damped cloth at 90 degrees for 10-20 minutes. Thats all. I print directly on it no juice, no stick, nothing. Its only cleaned with a razor blade and a damped cloth. Dont touch it.

Important for adhesion is to incease the pressure for the first layer. Printing with a height of 0,1 mm, first layer is set to 0,2mm and the distance is reduced by 0,07 mm (M3006). Thats only a suggestion, many different settings seem to work too.

I have absolutely no problems with warping an all those ugly things.

PeterKa

[PeterKa]

Well i just made a check and have to appologize .... the 3M Sheets are only used for gluing. Its adhesive on both sides. This explains the difference of the prize.

All i said is true for the Filaprint DPS. Since it is so expensive, i tried to find it elsewhere. I did not check the sheets when i received the parcel. I really sorry.

PeterKa

[PeterKa]

I dont know what filaprint really is, for me it looks like a normal hardpaper. But anyway, i am happy with it. I thought it was 3m486 but i was wrong.

DSC_0005.jpg

Thats how i print. Best adhesion is needed. Works without any treatment of the plate.

PeterKa

[Primoz]

Today PETG took a bite out of ceramic bed.



I saw a post on this forum that this had happened to someone on RF2000, but I wasn't really paying attention on why that happened.
I used PrintaFix BAsic on the bed and was working well with PETG (not so much with ABS). I printed like half of the spool and had no problems. Parts usually came off by themselves or needed just a little help with spatula once bed had cooled down.
This time I actually let it sit whole night on the bed, so it was completely cooled down. I had 4 pieces on the bed and all of them came off nicely with no problem. Including the one that took the bite. I would think it would need quite a bit of force to brake a ceramic piece.
I don't know what the problem was here. Did Printafix came off the bed on that spot and PETG connected directly to the bed?
Was it too cool and Printafix stuck too much to the plastic and bed?
Was there just a weak spot?

I will try to soak the piece in water or alcohol to see if the ceramic piece will come off the plastic part. If it will then there was still Printafix between bed and plastic. If it will not, then plastic was welded to the ceramic.

Does anyone have any idea what should I use to fill the hole? I was thinking about epoxy glue. But if anyone has any better idea or concern, please share.