Hallo Allen,

Ich probiere um in Deutch zu schreiben:

Ich habe probleme mit printen von PLA (ABS habe ich noch nicht probiert).
Ich habe verscheidene Einstellungen probiert aber immer einer gleichen Ergebnis (ich habe ein Bield hinzugefugt).

Welcher einstellungen gebrauchen Sie in Cura fur printen der PLA?
Wissen Sie wass falsch sein konnte?

Danke sehr,
Bauke

English (in case my german writing is that bad )

Hi all,

I'll try to write in german.

I have some troubles printing pla. (haven't tried ABS yet).
After trying some different settings in Cura I still don't get the result I expected (i've added a pircture of a result).

What settings do you guys use?
Do you maybe see what might be wrong?

Thanks,
Bauke

trebium hat geschrieben:Hallo Alle,


Wissen Sie wass falsch sein konnte?

Danke sehr,
Bauke

Are You shure, that the STL-File is ok? PLA / RF 1000/ Repetier-Host= no problem
I know nothing about cura

Hi!

Do you use the orginal tft Filament guide? I think this will be happend, if the filament doesn´t evenly comes.
Than this will not happen with cura - this will happen with all slicers than! We all have changed first this
Filament guide to became exatly and easy extrude the filament.
If this don´t work, you can make what you want in the slicer - it will maybe get this results - sometimes better,
sometimes bad, but no times really good...!
Or have you changed this? than we need more informations for your settings and Firmware and so on to help
you much better...

with regards

Christian


and welcome to the Club!

Bauke/trebium,

The photo you posted shows symptoms that could be related to several settings. I haven't used cura much, so far, so I can't help there. But I can tell you some of my theories. (Remember, they're only theories).

• The perimeters and the first layer (i.e. the brim) look better than the infill. The first layer and perimeters are generally done slower than the infill, so either the speed is a little too high, or the temperature is a little low. The speed I curently run at, with PLA, is between 50 and 60 mm per second. If your speeds are close to that, they are probably OK. But for a quick test, while printing, just use the printer display and slow down the print ("Quick Settings", "Speed Mul." - try dropping that 20% or more for a while and watch the results). You can also increase the temperature in 5° steps while printing. But wait for one or two complete layers before increasing again, all the while observing the results. I would only change either speed or temperature per test. Messing around with two variables at the same time can really get you messed up.
• I think you could be close with regards to the flow rate, but you need to get the temperature (and maybe speed) right before you start changing the flow rate. Deviating from the optimum flow rate will only cause problems with bridges (if the flow rate is too high), or cause the extruded bead to cut corners, making them rounded (if flow rate is too low), as well as reducing the overall strength of the item.

I suggest you print the exact same thing again, even using the same gcode file, but just raising the temperature OR slowing the speed. Let me (us) know if there was any improvement.

Also, it would be helpful if you post some of the general settings: nozzle size, layer height, temperature (first layer as well as rest), bed teperature (I think this isn't important in your case, but you never know), one or two significant speed settings (i.e. perimeter speed, infill).
I know that Slic3r includes this data at the very end of the gcode file, so there it would be a simple matter of cut & paste.

mjh11

Hi Allen

Here are some settings for Cura. This is not the last version. A newer version is available. But anyway this should work. The settings are in german but you can find it easily in english. Print an easy object first. Change settings only one by one. Have success !

regards

Georg

Hi zusammen!

Wißt Ihr eigentlich, ob der Kollege noch die Orginal zuführung von Conrad verwendet? Hab Ihn zwar schon gefragt, weiß aber nicht, ob es so richtig bei Ihm angekommen ist...!

Für die kleinen besipieldrucke funzt die Orginal Zuführung nämlich noch einigermaßen passabel, aber bei längeren Drucken werden die Probleme zusehends größer...

Ich vermute nämlich das Problem gar nicht in den Einstellungen, sondern in der viel zu schwergängigen und unsteten zuführung durch den Schlauch...

Nicht das Ihr euch tot sucht und rumstellt... Wenn die Hardware nicht paßt, richtets die Software auch nimmer...

Gruß, Christian

Hi Allen

As far as I can see, the brim around the object is printed +- ok. I guess the temperature is +- ok. Pls check the filament conduct, aka filament guide. If you use the original hose (flexible tube) a well known problem could occur. After a certain time the filament is no more correct transported. You can see more and more little filament particles close to the upper filament inlet. At the upper brass end.
Most of us have cut the tube close to the extruderside. We have put the filament coil ontop of the machine or at the side on four ballbearings. So the filament slides very easy into the extruder. That's very very important !
Try once to advance the filament manually ( extruder in the home position, heated up to the operation temperature )
Is the flow contineous ? Interrupted ? Please keep in mind that during operation there are feed and retraction phases.
Try different temperatures ( eg from 200 down to 190 and also up to 220°C.) The top and bottom layers should be always 3-to 5 times of the layer thickness. Use 100% infill first ! Print with slow speed. 3D printing is a time consuming issue.

ciao Georg

Hallo zusammen, habe gelesen es geht hier unter anderem auch um die Zuführung des Filaments, welches ist da die Beste? Ich drucke momentan mit der Standard Zuführung.

Gruss Roger

P.s. hoffe hab die Diskussion nicht zu sehr gestört

Hi!

Kein Problem - schau z.b. mal da: http://rf1000.de/forum/modelle/448-alte ... zum-testen ... zum-testen

Sind mittlerweile etliche Praktikable ausführungen hier vorgestellt...
Lohnt sich allemal, da etwas zu investieren, als den "Murks" Softwaretechnisch zu versuchen, zu kompensieren...
Muß man leider so sagen - war eine schnelle und billig Lösung, die Conrad da beigelegt hatte - aber gut sieht
anders aus... - wäre für den TO auch interessant, von daher nicht allzu Off Topic... Paßt schon...

Gruß, Christian

Wenn Du die Rollen oberhalb des Druckes an der Wand befestigen willst, wäre meine Lösung nicht schlecht: http://rf1000.de/forum/modelle/517-fila ... art=6#5818 ... art=6#5818
Der Rollenhalter befindet sich etwas weiter oben im Thread