Hi!

Sorry I write English but my teacher of German was horrible :]

I would like to buy glass plate for RF2000
Mine is broken in a half so I need to change it.
I do not need heating element I would use one I already have.

You can send me info on prv or email [email protected]

Best regards

Hello philipgd,

there are several members of the community which experienced simliar or related problems with the ceramic glass plate.
Did you check your bill for warranty? (In case you didnt break it by force or mistake)

If you should still have warranty then Marcometaner -> http://www.rf1000.de/memberlist.php?mod ... file&u=188 is the contact you need.
Sometimes the ceramic glass has issues with breaking or issues which cause some top parts of the glass to break out.

For a final solution (stable process of printing) I got some carbon plate and bought 3M468 glue sheets. The glue holds some pertinax sheet where I print on. Whenever I do not need the perfect surface of the glass I print on that Bed. When I print flex or i need real pretty things I use the ceramic glass bed. I as well reused my red silicon heater. 3M468 works well connecting it to the Carbon plate. Others say some should use high temperature silicon to glue it to another bed plate - once ripped off it wouldnt stick as well as it did and needs to. You should carefully avoid nonsticking areas inbetween your plate and the silicon heat bed under any circumstances.

Greetings

Die sind leider nicht lieferbar. Ich muss noch ca 7 Wochen warten

Ich hab mir heute eine Aluplatte 250*250*6mm / 7075er Alu.... 23€. Da müssen noch 4 Löcher rein und fertig ist der Lack. Vergeßt den Glas und Keramikkram..

PeterKa

What carbon plate did you used? 4-5-6mm? What about heating it up.
If i will not buy original glass bed i consider using anycubic ultrabase plate that I will cut by water jet router

About a glue.
Several times i used loctite EA9492 this is resin glue up to 180celsius
I used it to glue ceramic resistors to aluminium bed in my other printers it works perfect.

I did write some Posts explaining my carbon parts:
http://www.rf1000.de/viewtopic.php?f=76 ... =50#p17692
For the Bed: There is around 4mm carbon, then 1mm Pertinax. I cannot say that I see problems on that. All my carbon plates have multidirectional layers.

The lower bed mount part is 4mm which I see as a minimum here. You could easily go for 5 or 6.
This is my construction, I used 4mm.
http://www.rf1000.de/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=2069#p21019
4mm is ok for the printed bed but you can push it down by finger. It is some tiny amount less stiff than the original double plated aluminium construction from Conrad Renkforce. Luckily the high force while printing is inside the hotend, not inbetween hotend and bed. So it works awsome and crashing with the nozzle wouldnt make that much of a problem.
If you would like to mill with 4mm carbon - no chance!

One other community member, ipirk, (http://www.rf1000.de/viewtopic.php?f=15 ... irk#p20193) said that 5mm is his minimum for the lower bed mount part. He tried 2.5mm as a first shot and that didnt work well.

Heating up the carbon is safe to 100°C according my seller. Others say 110°C. -> With some nice modern build plate you shouldnt need temperatures like 130°C+. You might consider changing the top max values for the heated bed temperature within your firmware. (Thats quite easy!)

I hope you can read and understand some of those posts listed atop using google translator maybe. Otherwise just ask for details here.

Parts in Onshape CAD:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/44b92 ... c01b08383c
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/37828 ... 2031ac067a