Thanks for the responses. I've cleaned the filament lead-in. Lowered the printing speed and altered the start G-code. The F-value of around 5500 seems like a good fit considering the value is usually around 4000 and tops at 5000 on top layers. I might try it with 6500 tomorrow. For some background, how is this value measured and what exactly does it represent? I don't really understand the impact of it yet.
The new results are mediocre, I believe it might come down to a lack of cooling. What do you think? About the bed temperature, why would this be lowered?

About the fan, what do you think about the new parts I suggested earlier? I might give printing the support with ABS a try. The old fans worked but I don't know what output these were connected to. Nonetheless, a 12V radial fan should work, right?

Hi,

the RFX000 class has two arms at the top.
These are strain gauges, where force acts on the extruder and thereby changes its electrical resistance.
The resistance finally represents the digits.
The higher the digits, the more the strain gauges bend and the extruder motor has to use more force.
Of course, this also changes the nozzle distance to the printed part.

Lowering the bed temperature creates a cooler environment for the printed part.
The pressure part overheats less!

A lower speed lowers the digits and the printed part can cool down better, even without a component fan.
However, you should know exactly how far you can lower the bed temperature without the printed part losing its grip on the bed.

The easiest way is to print two dice at the same time.
This doubles the cooling time.
Then you will understand what I mean.

The original 12 V output from the mainboard cannot even last for 0.5 watts.
It’s about to be fried!
See my link in more detail on component fan repair.

LG AtlonXP

Hi,

Thank you for the explanation!

I printed a calibration cube and cat at the same time to test the effects of the increased layer time. This is still done at 190 °C extrusion with 60 °C bed temperature. However, this still requires glue to stick every time I print something. I clean the print bed beforehand but doesn't the use of glue still create small (unwanted) differences along the print bed? I assume the adhesion would only get worse once I start lowering the temperature. I could order some kapton tape along with the 24V fan. What do you think?

The prints still show a lack of cooling even though the average layer time was around 1-2 minutes. For the fan, I'm just going to double-check so I don't fry my board:

The 24 V (X20) output can withstand this load.

If you are using a 24V fan, you could also connect it to X19, assign the pin in the firmware to the fan and work with it.
The pin number is in the firmware behind FAN_PIN.
If I see that correctly, it is usually = #define ORIG_FAN_PIN 27 // PINA.5, 73, OUT2
But since the mosfet at pin 27 could be defective:
X19 also has a mosfet which should be #define CASE_LIGHT_PIN 25. I suspect that you can also use this port. It always makes 24V.
(from viewtopic.php?t=2048)

So I can remove the blue-red cable from X24 and connect it to either X19 or X20 and then change this pin number in the firmware? Then I can connect a new 24V fan to the outlet of the blue-red cable near the extruder without breaking the port?

Thank you,
Stefan

Hi,
first of all you should check whether the 24V as PWM signal is still available on port X20.
It is the same MOSFET that also switches port X24.
If there is still electricity there is no need to change anything in the FW.
Simply plug a 24 V fan into port X20 and continue.

The X19 port is defined in our FW in the printer as "light on" and can be switched via G code or on the printer menu.
As another option, I would like to address port X10, which is also free.
On this and the X19, changes in the firmware have to be made.
Programming is not my area of ​​expertise.

A radial fan is best suited for your project.
This type of fan is able to generate more air pressure than an axial fan.
An axial fan is more suitable for larger air volumes.

Just like that next to.
Look at my little fan, that's enough for me.
viewtopic.php?p=14480#p14480

LG AtlonXP

Hi,

Thank you for the response. I ordered the fan and connected it to port X20. The fan works and I'm going to test how to best utilize it.

However, I also noticed a (new?) buzzing sound coming from the circuit board once I turn on the printer. To check if this is caused by the newly attached fan I removed the connector from port X20 but the buzzing still persists. Now I'm not sure if I never noticed this before or if it's new. If it is new I have no idea if it's harmful or not. Everything works as it should.

Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

Thank you,
Stefan

Hi,
the noise could come from your engines.
If you switch off the motors in the printer menu, the sounds should stop.
Then that's normal.

LG AtlonXP

Hello I have a problem with my RF1000. It does print OK.
But I can not reverse the feeding of filament to extruder.
It does not go backwards when I try to press the button for reverse direction of filament.
What can I do?
Uffy

Hi Uffy,

Making a decent analysis and coming up with the proper solution is a little difficult due to the lack of information.

My first guess would be that you are trying to retrack with a cold hot end. If the hot end (~extruder) is below a certain temperature, all moves are disabled.

Q: When retracting filament does not work, does extruding filament still work?

Q: If you use a host via USB (Repetier-Host, Pronterface, Simplify 3D, etc.), can you extrude but not retract?

May COVID-19 spare us all!,

mjh11

I use USB from my laptop computer. I can extrude but not retract. I did use Repetier-Host. The extruder was not cold. AND I can not getfrinting from the SD card to function, only USB.

Printing from the SD Card.