Replacement print bed

[mns]

Hi,

Sorry for using English, my German is far to bad for conversations.

My RF1000s print bed unfortunately cracked due to an old injury sustained before I got a hold of it and I'm looking to replace it in some way.

Since the spare print beds for RF1/2000 has long gone out of stock I was wondering if anyone had any experience in fabricating a replacement bed out of third party supplies?

My plan is to start of with the ZMorph print bed https://www.3dprima.com/de/zubehoer/dru ... en/a-24257 as it's the same dimension as the RF1000, then re-glue the old heating element and modify the PEEK standoffs.

Any suggestions?

Danke im voraus

[mhier]

It maybe depends on the material you want to print. Some people have made very good experience with aluminium surfaces to print on. They can be very flat (if the surface is milled) and are available easily even cut to custom dimensions. Also it won't break that easily. You can also drill appropriate holes at the edges to you don't have to modify the standoffs.

If you are able to remove the original heating element, you can reglue it to an aluminium plate as well. I have heart the recommendation to use standard silicone as used for sanitary purposes as a glue. I do not have any first hand experience though, since my heat bed luckily is still intact

[af0815]

RF2000V2 have a milled alu bed as standard.

[AtlonXP]

Hello mns,
a finely milled aluminum cast plate should be good.

Here is a translated manual from me,
how to continue using the old heating mat:

The heating mat should be solved without major problems.
The 3M stuff doesn't stick well.

The heating mat consists of 2K silicone and is therefore quite insensitive to solvents.
Just take paint cleaner and soak the stuck areas.
But please do not use nitro thinner.

For post-cleaning I recommend acetone so that the adhesive surfaces are clean.

I used simple sanitary silicone to stick it on.
This is temperature stable up to 180 C °.
Then there is high temperature silicone from the tube ...
If you want to do it very well, get the original 2K silicone.
However, you have to make sure that it has a short-term stable temperature of 240 ° C.

LG AtlonXP

[mns]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I kind of jumped the gun and ordered the glass plate. Now, in hindsight I wish I'd waited for the suggestions. Still, I wont have access to machine shop for a few weeks so this could be an interim solution. While I can get aluminium plates cut to size I haven't found a place that also does surfacing, but I will continue looking.

Regarding the heating mat. As you said, it came of pretty easily, even without solvents but it could use some clean up. I will give acetone a try. Interesting that normal silicon is that heat resistant, my plan was to use a specific heat resistant silicon https://www.casco.eu/global/casco/?p=624&pc=96 which would be good up to 300 deg but I don't really see a reason now.

As aluminium plate feels like a more long term solution I decided to save stand-offs and instead print new ones, specifically designed for the glass bed. Hopefully PC-ABS can stand up the temperature.

Will update with results, for future reference.

Danke schoen!